Bologna is an Italian university town, with some medieval flair. It makes for a great foodie destination as well as a convenient base to explore Italy’s charming small cities. @nina.mclernon and I had such a great time here, we spent a whole full day walking around, eating and discovering more about the capital of Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region. Before I start a detailed guide of Bologna let me tell you its three nicknames:
- “Dotta” (Educated) honors the University of Bologna, the oldest university in the Western world.
- “Grassa” (Fat) refers to Bologna’s renowned cuisine, some of the best Italian food in the world.
- “Rossa” (Red) for the stunning red rooftops made of clay (and its left-leaning politics).
GETTING AROUND
The easiest way to get around Bologna is on foot, and it’s such a pleasure to do. Over 24 miles of covered medieval porticoes – pretty arches that shield the streets from both the sun and rain.
WHAT TO SEE
BUILDINGS AND MONUMENTS
PIAZZA MAGGIORE
Piazza Maggiore is ringed by medieval buildings which carry out the city’s administrative, municipal and religious functions. It changes according to the time of day. In the morning, it’s a square of crossing paths as people hurry to work, to the lecture, theater, to the bar, to lunch. By the afternoon, it has begun to hold its public: huddles of old men; children chasing pigeons. Near Via IV Novembre, Bologna (bolognawelcome.com).
BASILICA DI SAN PETRONIO
This Basilica, at the southern edge of Piazza Maggiore, was first started in the 1300s. Somehow, it was never finished: a beautiful rose-and-cream Gothic lower storey, with intricate bas-relief panels by Jacopo della Quercia around the main door, gives way to a dark, vaguely menacing brick upper section. We went inside for a peak where you can find the meridian line.
Via dell’Archiginnasio, Bologna (basilicadisanpetronio.org).
TORRE DEGLI ASINELLI & TORRE GARISENDA
Bologna’s two leaning towers are the city’s main symbol.
During medieval times, rich families demonstrated their power by constructing their own tower within the city, all striving to be the tallest and most grand. At one time, there were as many as 125 towers and the city still has around 25 towers today.
Piazza di Porta Ravegnana, Bologna. (bolognawelcome.com).
These two towers are the tallest ones that still remain from that day, and the Asinelli Tower is the only one available to climb. For an overview of the city, climb the worn wooden staircase on the inside of the Torre degli Asinelli. You will have a great experience and one of the best possible view of Bologna!
QUADRILATERO
The Quadrilatero is the heart of the historical center in Bologna: one of the most ancient areas of the city, born for the development of handcraft and trade. It is bordered by Piazza Maggiore and from the side of Basilica di San Petronio and goes along via dell’Archiginnasio and piazza Galvani, from via Rizzoli, from Piazza Mercanzia, Via Castiglione and from via Farini. The Quadrilatero is a crossroads of narrow streets arranged on the basis of a roman plan that are the proof, still today, with their original names of the ensemble of activities and trade that developed in the past centuries. Stroll through the covered Mercato di Mezzo, where you can stop for a fritto misto or piadina flatbread.
WHERE TO STAY
If there’s one thing to plan on for your first trip to Bologna, it’s staying within the city center, close to the main attractions. This means staying inside the outer highway loop that circles the city. You’ll find luxury hotel rooms and quaint B&Bs, all within steps of your favorite piazza.
We opted for 051 B&B Room & Breakfast, close to bars and restaurants but most importantly right in the heart of Bologna. Recently renovated from an old building, it offers all the amenities you can think of.
Our room was on the third floor, quiet, clean and cozy. The style was very modern with an elegant touch to it. As soon as we entered, we noticed the little balcony with a view over the roofs of Bologna historic center…ah what a great way to wake in the morning! The bed was really conformable and the bathroom a little small but modern and perfectly functioning.
Breakfast was every morning from 8.30 to 11 am. They offered a continental breakfast: from coffee and tea to yogurt, pastries, meat, cheese and bread.
What makes 051 B&B different from its competitors is the little touch. I’m talking about chocolates, water and tea, little pastries and much more always there at your disposal. In a way, it does make you feel like your at home, “casa dolce casa“.
Via S. Vitale, 4 Bologna (051roomandbreakfast.it).
WHERE TO EAT OUT
Bologna is known as the gastronomic capital of northern Italy. The local osterie and trattorie are often the best places to sample the traditional dishes (tortellini, tagliatelle with ragù, mortadella and tigelle) and good local wines at low prices.
Trattoria Anna Maria
We had lunch at Trattoria Anna Maria, an authentic Italian restaurant located in the historical heart of Bologna. The cozy and homely atmosphere definitely remind the customer of the history of the establishment, opened in 1985, and that of Bologna and of the Bolognese cooking tradition.
The trattoria is furnished with simple furniture to always remind people, who come to Anna Maria’s restaurant, of its old traditions, simply recipes and handmade dishes. The atmosphere is really cozy and friendly. On the wall you can find countless letters of appreciation from costumers, journalists and celebrities who enjoyed the restaurant.
The menu has a selection of local dishes, perfectly in line with what a tourist might be looking for when choosing to sample traditional cuisine. For example, among the first courses served here, we had the classical tagliatelle al ragù and tortellini in brodo. The dishes we ordered were displayed somewhat in a simple manner, no fancy presentation to show, once again, the true and genuine taste of the recipes and avoid distraction for the customer.
Last but not least, we shared tiramisù (don’t forget big portions before ordering dessert!) while chatting a little bit with Laura, Anna Maria’s friend. She told us a little more about the restaurant, the homemade recipes. She doesn’t just help her friend but she’s also an English and Italian teacher. Laura has her own website if you want to check it out. Her approach to tutoring Italian is really interesting and somewhat new. Later on, we had a sneaky peak of the kitchen and they gave us homemade heart shaped cookies before we left. So sweet!!
Via delle Belle Arti, 17/A, Bologna (trattoriannamaria.com).
Ristorante Al Sangiovese
Settled in a hidden street close to Piazza Maggiore Al Sangiovese is a small, cozy and romantic family restaurant. It doesn’t go unnoticed the rustic environment and the wines wall behind the counter.
We started with an antipasto of meats/cheese for two, paired with some authentic Sangiovese wine, red and smooth. We loved it! Nina tried tagliatelle al ragù and I opted for some delicious tortelloni filled with ricotta cheese. I liked the menu because it doesn’t too many options but the ones on there can satisfy everybody!!
We really liked the restaurant, staff was very accommodating to Italian and non-Italians speaking diners. Best to book to be assured a table; we went early with no reservation, we got lucky but later on, it got crowded and the restaurant had turn people away.
Vicolo Del Falcone 2, Bologna (alsangiovese.com)
THINGS TO KNOW BEFORE GOING TO BOLOGNA
Getting to Bologna by train
Bologna is accessible via the Italo and Trenitalia as well as being the main station from which to easily travel to regional areas and neighboring cities.
Bologna Welcome Card
Like any city card, the Bologna Welcome Card is a money saver if you are looking to go to a lot of top attractions and museums. The are two options available according to your needs. More info on the website.
This post was made it possible thanks to the collaboration with Bologna Welcome, 051 Room & Breakfast and Anna Maria Restaurant. All opinions are my own.
Did you like Bologna? Let me know if I missed anything in the comments!
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